Of all the stories told in picture form by the Bayeux Tapestry, one of the most bypassed is the section where William and pals wheel barrels of wine on board a ship before sailing from Normandy to England.
Yet it’s one that begs a question: why on earth didn’t William go from Calais? Not only could he have saved himself a fair few nautical miles, he would also have been able to bag one or two boozy bargains at the hypermarché first. Silly Willy.
A millennium has passed. So too have 1990s booze cruises, when Channel hoppers could bring huge quantities of wine home. Despite the current cap – which permits a personal allowance of 42 litres of beer or 18 litres of wine – buying alcohol in Calais is still very much a British pastime.
For good reason: the price gap. Not only is it far cheaper to buy French wine in one of Calais’ supermarkets or wine stores than it is in the UK, you can additionally claim back the VAT. Spend a minimum of €100.01 (£86) in participating stores, get a form at checkout, trot along to customer services for a little admin, and just by scanning your documents at the ferry terminal, you will be eligible for a refund. Of course, there’s another way to make savvy savings: not by buying in France itself, but purchasing on board the ferry.
Moreover, there’s also fun to be had in much-maligned Calais, on account of recent cultural renewal. Visitors frequent the Fashion and Lace Museum, Rodin’s famous statue, the Unesco-listed belfry, the lighthouse. More significant is the radical seafront glow-up, completed in 2023. Now, alongside the white sands and matching beach huts stretches a kilometre-long recreational promenade, complete with poster boy: a 10-metre-high mobile dragon literally and metaphorically breathing fresh energy into Calais’ beach scene. Imagine William atop, in an added stitched scene.
The best places to buy wine in Calais
**1. The hypermarket **
Best for: Middle aisle marvels
The Coquelles district is also home to a large Carrefour supermarket, located inside the vast mall Cité Europe.
Its wine aisles stock everything from best-avoided vin-de-table all the way through to premium, much of it boxed for bulk purchasing. Navigate first by colour then by French region – a little different to UK supermarkets, which often display by colour then grape.
Over in the aperitif aisle, best bruts for Brits include crémants, a far smarter sparkling than champagne. “On a tous droit au meilleur”, says the Carrefour strapline, or “we all have a right to the best.”
Better still, every other coveted French foodstuff is under the same roof – from patisserie that looks like it belongs to the chicest Parisian cafe to more cheese than you can shake a baguette at.
It’s good to revise the label shorthand before a trip. For example, an “r” on the foil capsule is for “récoltant”, which means that the whole process, from vine to bottling, is undertaken by the producer. Bottles are a part of the Reflets range if Carrefour has partnered with the grower. Medaille d’Ors are prize winners. Remember a €1 trolley coin and check opening times as they don’t always mirror those in Britain.
Read more: I saw the best of unspoilt France on a €1 train ticket
**2. The wine store **
Best for: Shop-floor advice
Choice and convenience is up for grabs at some of Calais’ specialist wine stores, but with the added benefit of advice. Staff are often skilled at asking a couple of key questions about budget and preference before leading you to your perfect bottles.
A personal favourite is Calais Vins. Manager Stéphane Comello told me that after 24 years in business, they know it’s best to cut the pompous wine talk and get to the point. They offer tastings, yes, plus bottles you can’t get in the supermarket, but all sans jargon.
They are also particularly good at swap-out suggestions, offering big-name quality without the price tag. Ditch a Châteauneuf-du-Pape (around €24; £20) in favour of Lirac-Domaine-Colombettes (€9.95; £8.50). Or swap a Sancerre (around €22; £19) for Coteaux-du-Giennois-Les-Charmes (€9.95; £8.50).
There are often seasonal deals, too. By making an order of more than €300 (£260) on Calais Vins’ website, passengers can occassionally unlock a free P&O ferry crossing for pick up.
**3. On board the ferry **
Best for: Savings on staples
Rather than stocking up on wine in Calais, you can purchase on board the ferry instead. Prices are duty-free and competitive since ferry operators often price match with the leading French supermarkets. On request, there’s usually a handy carry-to-car service, too.
It’s the smart choice if you’re after well-known names from UK retail shelves, such as Yellow Tail and Casillero del Diablo, which often cost half of the price at home. Whispering Angel is currently cheaper by around a third.
For the same terms but a bigger selection, ferry company DFDS has an in-port store in Calais. If a customer spends more than €150 (£130) in DFDS’s shops, they are eligible for a free day trip.
How to do it
For information on ferry routes from Dover to Calais and duty-free allowances (including value limits), visit DiscoverFerries.com. Services include DFDS and Irish Ferries, which offer multiple sailings per day. Crossings take around £90, with prices from £55 per car.
Where to stay
For an independent hotel with old-world elegance, Hotel Meurice is a great pick. From £84 per night.
Lucy was a guest of CalaisXXL Tourisme and Pas-de-Calais Tourisme