Picnic Island is special but just how special only becomes apparent late one night as I stand on its highest point, a tiny speck of humanity surrounded by the dark immensity of Great Oyster Bay.
For several minutes, I’m bewitched by the dramatic sight of slate-grey clouds moving across the face of a huge moon. A light breeze caresses the ankle-deep vegetation, but otherwise the island is bathed in silence.
Staring up at the heavens it occurs to me that if I sail south from here my nearest landfall will be Macquarie Island – 1600 kilometres away – and beyond that the icy wastes of Antarctica.
I’m still contemplating this fact as I wander back to my room on Picnic Island, a former fishing camp transformed into an exclusive private luxury getaway.
Just 800 metres offshore, the island is an oasis of calm tossed into this glorious Tasmanian bay, a pristine stretch of water bigger than Sydney Harbour and sheltered by Freycinet National Park.
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Great Oyster Bay produces mussels, abalone, sea urchin and, of course, oysters but is also home to thriving colonies of fur seals, little penguins and bottlenose dolphins. Whales can often be seen in these waters during their twice-yearly migration along the east coast.
One morning Sam, our island host, takes us across the bay to visit the Australian fur seals on Refuge Island, where we find around 20 of these plump-looking creatures sunning themselves on the rocks.
“This is not technically a colony but more of a haul-out where the fur seals rest and digest their food after hunting,” he explains.
Right on cue a couple of the younger fur seals throw themselves into the water, lazily lifting a flipper into the air like cross channel swimmers acknowledging the applause of their enthusiastic supporters. But as Sam explains this languid gesture is not directed at us but merely allows the fur seal to regulate its body temperature after sunbathing on the rocks.
“It looks like they are waving to you,” he says. “But there are large blood vessels in their flippers and they are exposing these to the air.”
Catching up with the local population of little (or fairy) penguins is even simpler since a small number nest on Picnic Island, a protected wildlife sanctuary. Measuring just 40 centimetres when fully grown, these dinky sea birds can often be heard at night but finding them in the gloom takes skill and patience.
Two years in the making, new-look Picnic Island welcomed its first guests in February this year. It is a daring venture from joint owners Mark Israel and Elisa Yu who want to share their unique island kingdom with like-minded travellers from around the globe.
“This isn’t just luxury accommodation,” says Israel. “It’s a fully immersive experience in one of Australia’s most pristine environments.”
The lodge consists of two accommodation wings, including a newly-added host suite, and a communal lounge-dining room. The island, which can sleep up to eight, must be booked in its entirety, with a minimum booking of three nights required. Children aged older than 14 are welcome.
Working closely with local artisans and environmental consultants Israel and Yu are offering a new type of bespoke wilderness experience in Tasmania – one that allows guests to disengage with the world, and yet enjoy the highest level of comfort – with three resident staff members, including a chef, and a wide range of activities, from guided walks to private yoga sessions.
“We’re pioneering a new model of luxury travel, one that prioritises connection, transformation, and slowness,” says Yu.
While the new lodge development veers towards the rustic, with plenty of recycled wood and off-grid technology, the island’s custom-designed 7.5 metre launch does add an element of glamour to the whole experience, whisking guests back and forth from the wharf at Coles Bay on excursions.
“This vessel delivers exclusive access to Tasmania’s marine environment,” says Israel.
While the food and drink offering is exceptional and the curated experiences well-chosen, what sets Picnic Island apart is its absolute privacy.
Once you step onto Picnic Island, the everyday world and its troubles recede into the distance – leaving guests to immerse themselves in the panoramic views of The Hazards and, at night, the gentle bark of little penguins.
THE DETAILS
FLY
Virgin Australia has flights from Sydney and Melbourne to Hobart (return from $320). Guests can book land transfers from Hobart Airport to Coles Bay with a travel time of about 2½ hours. Helicopter or seaplane transfers are also available. Similar arrangements from Launceston. See virginaustralia.com
STAY
Picnic Island is a private sanctuary located in Great Oyster Bay on Tasmania’s east coast. The island is available on an exclusive-use basis only. Tariffs start at $32,000 for a three-night minimum booking (low-season) and include accommodation, chef-prepared meals, all drinks, boat transfers and at least one adventure activity. See picnicisland.com.au
The writer was a guest of Picnic Island and Tourism Tasmania.