Lighter-bodied reds – we’re talking pinot meunier (pinot noir’s shy cousin), gamay (the grape of Beaujolais), dolcetto, mencia, barbera, cinsault and the lighter versions of grenache – are having their day.

Fridgeable, smashable, easygoing reds that need no cellaring and are made to enjoy young. They’re cheaper than pinot noir and pair with all types of seafood, poultry and vegetable dishes.

My top three lighter-bodied reds

• De Bortoli The Estate Vineyard Gamay 2025, Yarra Valley ($25)
  Full and very bright purple in colour; meaty, plummy and spicy on the nose, a touch of funky carbonic maceration character and bright and crisp in the mouth with lively acidity.
• Best’s Young Vine Pinot Meunier 2025, Great Western ($45)
  Light, fresh, purple-fringed colour with a fruit-driven, grapy, raspberry aroma. The wine is light in the mouth but not too simplistic, with some forest-floor and savoury touches and fine, powdery tannins. Light and food-friendly.
• TarraWarra Estate Barbera 2024, Yarra Valley ($40)
  Deep, bright-purple in colour and offering a fragrant nose of violets and blueberry – it has an inviting perfume, with some bunchy notes. Excellent intensity of fruit, with oak playing a merely supportive role, while tannins are refined and balanced. Can be enjoyed young but it could also benefit from keeping it a while longer.

Got a drinks question for Huon Hooke? thefullbottle@goodweekend.com.au