One of my favourite albums of all time is The Masterplan by Oasis. Released in 1998, It’s a compilation of B-sides that never made it on to any of the band’s big albums, and has since become a love language for people who wear bucket hats and Adidas tracksuits. These songs might not be as famous, or as charted, but I’ll be damned if they’re not just as good as the band’s output.
Travel is no different.
Kyoto is basically Wonderwall at this point, a city so popular that every Japanophile feels the way I do about it now. It’s a victim of its own success, a track that gets played so much I roll my eyes whenever I hear it.
This is when you play the B-sides. Instead of Kyoto, go to Kumamoto, or trade Koh Phangan for Koh Phayam and be converted from a casual listener to a hardcore fan. These B-side cities are the ones that you transit through, the destinations that are overshadowed by their more popular neighbours, or are simply so back-catalogue that you’ve never heard of them at all.
I’ve long believed that these destinations give you a better insight into the character of its country than their more famous counterparts ever could. With this in mind, let’s flip the record and take a spin through some of my favourite B-side cities in Asia.
The B-Side: Yogyakarta, Indonesia
Why I love it When I arrived in Yogyakarta, my first thought was, “huh, now I get it”. Now I understand why people fall in love with Indonesia. For me, it was all thanks to Yogyakarta pretty much being the opposite of Bali. It’s an arty town with an awesome music scene, and, randomly, the best gelato I’ve had in Asia.
Take a spin Borobudur, the largest Buddhist temple in the world, is worth a visit, even for a temple cynic like me. Hang out at Tilldrop at night, check out Beringharjo Market during the day, and eat plenty of Tempo Gelato. There are also bike tours that take you into the city’s surrounding rice paddies, which are stunning.
Don’t miss It sounds cliche, but check out Wayang Kulit Javanese shadow puppetry. You can see it at the Royal Palace of Yogyakarta or the nearby Sonobudoyo Museum.
Essentials If you’re heading to Borobudur, book early, as there is a limit to how many people can climb the temple each day. See indonesia.travel
The B-Side: Nagoya, Japan
Why I love it The first time I came to Nagoya, I felt a mild buzz before I left the train station. This wasn’t entirely my fault – my arm was twisted by a series of standing bars and their delicious snacks. It set the tone for my time in Nagoya, a city known as “Japan’s most boring”, despite being anything but.
Take a spin If you, too, like the idea of mixing sake and public transportation, head to Fushimi Station and enjoy the standing bars. And, of course, soak up your hangovers with the famous Nagoya breakfast, where ordering a wee coffee will get you a free piece of toast, a boiled egg, and a piece of fruit or something of the sort.
Don’t miss Atsuta-jingu Shrine is a gorgeous complex surrounded by elegant cypress trees, and there wasn’t a single tourist in sight.
Essentials Nagoya is surprisingly bikeable and Nikko Style Nagoya has Tokyobikes bikes to rent from the lobby. See nagoya-info.jp/en
The B-Side: Loei, Thailand
Why I love it What Loei lacks in a sensible arrangement of vowels, it makes up for by being a charming town on the border with Laos, combining the beauty of the mountains with the majesty of the Mekong.
Take a spin The night market in Loei gives you the best bits of Northern Thai and Isaan cuisine. It’s also a gateway to many national parks, with one of the best being Phu Kradueng, where you can do hikes that are virtually unknown to foreign tourists.
Don’t miss Is it weird to have a favourite river? Whatever, mine’s the Mekong, and a great place to see it is the nearby shophouse town of Chiang Khan. Have a beer, sit by the water and feel like you’re achieving something, despite all the evidence to the contrary.
Essentials Loei is the coldest province in Thailand. Nights can drop to single digits in December and January, so be warned. See tourismthailand.org
The B-Side: Busan, Korea
Why I love it There is a joke in Korea that Seoul has become Singapore. If you want a job or an essential service, you have to go to Seoul. But if one city is putting up a fight, it’s Busan, the home of my favourite Korean baseball team (go Giants!). People call it “gritty” but I’ve always found “gritty” to be a euphemism for “a bit crap” and Busan is nothing of the sort.
Take a spin Climb the streets around the colourful houses of Gamcheon, then soak your sore feet on the beach in Haeundae. Beomeosa Temple is one of Korea’s most important Buddhist sites, and there are some beautiful hikes around the surrounding peaks.
Don’t miss Watching the Lotte Giants play at Sajik Baseball Stadium is like watching the Rolling Stones at Wembley. It’s a riot of singing, dancing and pants that are arguably too tight.
Essentials Baseball season runs from March to September, with postseason in October. See visitbusan.net
The B-Side: Hue, Vietnam
Why I love it I arrived in Hue after being trapped on a train for 26 hours. The couple below me were fighting in a language that was unfamiliar to me, but I’m fairly certain I witnessed their divorce. Hue was an antidote to this – a, dare I say it, romantic city set on the Perfume River.
Take a spin Rent a bicycle or scooter and roll along the Perfume River to check out the Imperial City and royal tombs. Eat fabulous food, drink in beautiful coffee shops, and take a dragon boat cruise at sunset, when the river really shines.
Don’t miss Hue has some of the best food in Vietnam. And while everyone knows the eponymous Bun Bo Hue, the clam rice and imperial snacks deserve just as much hype.
Essentials February to April is the sweet spot here. Cool temps, low rainfall and great for exploring. See vietnam.travel
The B-Side: Guiyang, China
Why I love it In China, they don’t have A or B-sides, but an unofficial tier system that ranks cities by things like “concentration of commercial activity”, whereas I rate my Chinese cities by “concentration of delicious noodles”. Technically, this would make Guiyang a tier-1 city to me.
Take a spin Head to Qianling East Road, find the busiest restaurant on the strip, and try not to accidentally order a whole mountain of grilled chicken. Then pick one of seven craft beer bars within walking distance (my favourite was Trip Smith), and shake out the cobwebs at Captain George Coffee in the morning.
Don’t miss Qianling Park is great for a hike but less good when you’ve never met a monkey you could trust and are naturally suspicious of the hundred or so wild macaques around you.
Essentials Very few people in Guiyang speak English, so download a decent translation app. See travelchina.org.cn/en
The B-Side: Iloilo, The Philippines
Why I love it Iloilo is known as one of the most liveable parts of the Philippines, and while it might not be as beautiful as El Nido or as mad as Manila, it’s a fabulous place to visit if you’re into bikes, Spanish colonial architecture, and offal, like I am.
Take a spin Some of the best colonial architecture in the Philippines is in Iloilo. Check out the Molo neighbourhood or cruise down Calle Real. It’s like Cuba without communism but unlike Cuba, the food here is legit, whether you’re eating seafood or the iconic La Paz Batchoy. It’s an offal-heavy soup that creates arguments when you ask who has the best in town.
Don’t miss The island of Guimaras is only 15 to 30 minutes away by ferry. The proximity makes it a perfect way to combine city life with an island escape.
Essentials If you don’t want to deal with typhoon-related travel insurance, visit Iloilo between January and May. See visitiloilocity.com
The B-Side: Varkala, India
Why I love it Once a well-known backpacker hangout, I only met two foreigners in Varkala. Most people never make it past Goa, and never collect 200 rupees. Had they done so, they would have come to a beach town that combines body surfing with banging Indian food.
Take a spin Swim, eat, repeat, and drink lukewarm beer out of opaque mugs, thanks to Kerala’s strict alcohol licences. If you feel adventurous, pay a local fisherman to take you out on their boat. Our fishing lines broke after 10 minutes and with no spares, we spent the next hour doing backflips into the Arabian Sea. 10/10 would fish again.
Don’t miss Catching a train in India is one of the great joys of travel. Wherever you’re coming from, get the train to Varkala.
Tips November to February is the best time to chase sunshine in Varkala. See incredibleindia.gov.in/en
The B-Side: Chiayi, Taiwan
Why I love it If you’ve heard of Chiayi, chances are it was in the episode of Netflix’s Street Food that featured fish head soup. And while a fish head is probably the last thing you want to see in your soup, the city is more than this one dish, as I found out while cycling around the country.
Take a spin Eat turkey rice, visit Wenhua Road Night Market for delicious Taiwanese snacks, and get your dose of Japanese colonial history at the Chiayi Old Prison. Also, you can drink tap beer at the 7-Eleven near Wenhua Park, a novelty you think will wear off but somehow never does.
Don’t miss Chiayi is the gateway to the mountain town of Alishan, and you can catch an old, retro train there through an incredible forestscape on one of the most scenic railway lines in Asia.
Tips February to March is the best time to catch the cherry blossoms in Alishan. Note that the railway books out well in advance. See eng.taiwan.net.tw
The B-Side: Vientiane, Laos
Why I love it Vientiane is the only capital city on this B-side list and while not the sleepy town it was, it still has the heart of the place I fell in love with. Its strengths include great cafes and incredible sunsets.
Take a spin Khao jee pâté is one of the only good arguments for being colonised by the French; grab one and stroll around the Vientiane Night Food Market. Check out the genuinely awesome Lao Art Museum, and watch the sun set over the Mekong with a Beer Lao in hand.
Don’t miss The COPE Visitor Centre is one of the more important places in Laos to visit, if only to understand the impact of American imperialism and the heartache that unexploded ordnance reaps across the country.
Essentials Laos is a cash country so it’s always good to have some US dollars or Thai Baht in the pocket. See visitlaos.org
The B-Side: Ipoh, Malaysia
Why I love it People refer to Ipoh as a retirement home, but I’ve always liked the idea of being catered for, and having a variety of low-stakes activities to keep me occupied. With that said, welcome to Ipoh! It’s a place you come for food, coffee, and a totally unlicensed version of Hobbiton.
Take a spin Wander around Concubine Lane and experience kopitiam culture. Then check out the Buddhist temples of Sam Poh Tong and Kek Lok Tong, or travel to the abandoned mining town of Papan, where nature is reclaiming the crumbling architecture.
Don’t miss The Ipoh white coffee is the thing to drink here. Think less flat white, and more caramelised beans that are roasted in witchcraft (butter, sugar, etc) before brewing.
Essentials December to March is the best time to visit Ipoh, but avoid Chinese New Year unless you want to deal with long lines. See malaysia.travel
The B-Side: Kratie, Cambodia
Why I love it My trip to Kratie was accidental. The bus broke down, the driver abandoned us and, thank God he left us there, because Kratie is still my favourite part of Cambodia, a place where I was lucky enough to see the rare Irrawaddy dolphin.
Take a spin Take a ferry over to the neighbouring island of Koh Trong, where the community centre rents out delightfully terrible bicycles you can use to cruise around the island.
Don’t miss The Irrawaddy dolphin is a prime example of evolution’s sense of humour. It looks like something you’d find in an Adventure Time cartoon, not something that belongs in any body of water. These dolphins might look mildly ridiculous but seeing them up close at sunset was the most magical experience I had in Cambodia.
Essentials To see the dolphins, leave early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Visibility is best from December to April. See tourismcambodia.com
The B-Side: Trincomalee, Sri Lanka
Why I love it Half of Sri Lanka is somehow always under water, and Trincomalee was my way to escape the rain. The beaches are beautiful, and while they’re waking up to tourism, as the hangover from the civil war fades, it’s still the kind of place where you can eat seafood out of wooden shacks.
Take a spin The two main beaches are Nilaveli and Uppuveli, with Nilaveli being the better option for doing as little as possible and the aforementioned seafood. If doing nothing isn’t enough for you, go snorkelling around Pigeon Island, a short boat ride from Nilaveli.
Don’t miss Trincomalee is great for dolphin and whale watching, but do your research, and only book with tour operators who maintain a safe distance from the animals.
Essentials The best time to see whales is from May to August. Remember, they’re wild animals, so sightings are never guaranteed. See lovesrilanka.org
The B-Side: Geylang, Singapore
Why I love it I unabashedly love Singapore, which is why the city-state sneaks onto this list. Geylang is the B-side of town where the polish of it slips away. I’m also one of those weirdos who enjoys eating durian, and Geylang is a fabulous place to get your fix of the funky fruit.
Take a spin Cycle along the Geylang River path, or ride from East Coast Park to Changi Beach to build up an appetite. Head to the Old Airport Road Food Centre for some amazing hawker fare, or explore the Peranakan shophouses in the neighbouring Katong and Joo Chiat.
Don’t miss Geylang is the only legal red-light district in Singapore, and if you follow Geylang Road at night, you’ll find that the brothels bump shoulders with some of the best food in the city.
Essentials It’s the even-numbered lorongs (alleys) where the brothels operate, and the odd-numbered lorongs where you’ll find the food. See visitsingapore.com
The B-Side: Niigata, Japan
Why I love it I’m a firm believer that nowhere has better B-sides than Japan, as every city offers something unique. Niigata is all about sake. Well, technically, it’s all about rice, which is the best in Japan. But what better way to use rice than by turning it into sake?
Take a spin Go on a sake tour at Imayotsukasa Brewery, which runs English-speaking tours at 2pm from Monday to Friday. Eat rice (no, seriously), especially the famous Koshihikari rice, and head across to Sado Island, where you can swim, cycle, and float around in Ghibli-esque wooden tubs.
Don’t miss Ponshukan is a sake shop at Niigata Station where you can self-serve a hundred premium sakes into your tiny ceramic cup. It’s another example of why I really need to stop getting drunk at Japanese train stations.
Essentials Niigata offers something every season, but my pick is summer for Sado Island. See discover-niigata.com
WOULD YOU LIKE A-SIDES WITH THAT?
TokyoAs I write these words, I’ll be flying to Tokyo in less than 24 hours. No matter how many times I go, I never tire of coming back. I no longer make any plans here, either. All I do is rent a bike, find a neighbourhood, and let two wheels do my planning for me. See gotokyo.org
BangkokI fell in love with Bangkok in the taxi from the airport. A cop pulled us over to make room for the motorcade of King Bhumibol the Great. The driver smiled, sparked a cigarette, and told us it was good luck to see him, a luck I still feel whenever I land in Bangkok. See visit.bangkok.go.th
SeoulSome of the best nights I’ve had have been in Seoul, ones filled with more food than any one man could ever hope to eat. It’s the banchan that gets you. Those complimentary snacks around which I have no self-control, are my Achilles heel and while I’d like to blame them for the extra kilos the city always sends me home with, I’d rather think it’s because my heart is so full. See visitseoul.net
HanoiNothing makes more of an impression on an impressionable 18-year-old than trying to cross the road in Hanoi. It was a city that shaped who I am today, and whenever I want to find pieces of my younger self, I go searching for them in Hanoi. See vietnam.travel
Hong KongThis is embarrassing to admit, but before I decided to become a writer, I wanted to be part of Jackie Chan’s stunt crew. Hong Kong action cinema made me fall in love with the city before I’d even been there, and when I finally went, it exceeded all my expectations. See discoverhongkong.com
ELSEWHERE IN OUR REGION: PACIFIC B-SIDES
Tufi fjords, Papua New Guinea
Take a spin Kayaking through the Tufi’s tropical fjords, gazing up at rainforest-covered slopes, is a pinch-yourself experience. What lies beneath the water is even more memorable. Tufi’s coral reefs are studded with bommies that sit just below the surface. Add visibility of 30 metres of more, warm water temperature and flourishing fish life, and you have a treat for divers and snorkellers alike.
Don’t miss Tufi Resort organises village visits on which you can learn more about the local way of life and the warm, generous people who live here.
Essentials See papuanewguinea.travel
Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
Take a spin Home to lush forests and waterfalls that cascade down towering basalt cliffs, the Marquesas are French Polynesia’s “Heathcliff” islands: rugged and brooding like the Wuthering Heights anti-hero. They also contain some impressive archaeological sites, including the petroglyphs at Hatiheu and Puamau, with its hundreds of tiki statues.
Don’t miss Calvary Cemetery on the island of Hiva Oa is the final resting place of celebrated European artists including painter Paul Gauguin and singer Jacques Brel.
Essentials See tahititourisme.com
Vonavona Lagoon, Solomon Islands
Take a spin Whatever your favourite way to spend time in the water, Vonavona Lagoon has you covered. Take a swim off the white sand beaches of Lola Island or Nggatirana Island, go sportfishing, or take the plunge at dive sites that include World War II wrecks, swim-through caves and colourful reefs. There are even intermittent right-hand surf breaks off Skull Island and Lola Island.
Don’t miss Hire a local guide to visit the sacred site of Skull Island, where the regions’ head-hunting past is on display in the form of the skulls of victorious chiefs and their unfortunate captives.
Essentials See visitsolomons.com.sb
La Brousse, New Caledonia
Take a spin Cattle droving on a tropical island? No, we’re not making it up. The savannahs of Grand Terre are home to a distinctive cowboy culture that flourishes on the region’s cattle stations. Experience it for yourself with a farm stay where you can go horse trekking and feast on local specialties such as deer stew.
Don’t miss The Bourail Agricultural Fair is the region’s marquee event, a bonanza of rodeo events, riding competitions and markets held every August.
Essentials See au.newcaledonia.travel
Uoleva island, Tonga
Take a spin This is one for the Robinson Crusoe fans: a small island with photogenic beaches washed by gin-clear waters, a handful of pocket-sized resorts and not a single settlement. Take a walk around the island (allow two to three hours for the 10-kilometre trip) and go snorkelling on the vibrant reef. (Scuba diving trips leave from the nearby island of Lifuka.)
Don’t miss If you have always wanted to swim with humpback whales, you are in the right spot. Whale season is from mid-July to early October, and local operators maintain protocols to avoid distressing the animals.
Essentials See tongatourism.travel
– Ute Junker