“Give it a miss … Prizren is much prettier.” This was one of the comments I found online when I planned my journey through Kosovo last week and was researching the capital city, Prishtina.
I was slightly taken aback, especially as I then saw a number of comments about Prishtina being “boring” and “ugly”. I had seen similar comments about Tirana (one TikToker declared it 5/10 and not worth the time), but I had fast become incredibly fond of the Albanian capital, choosing to spend several days there each time I arrived, rather than rushing straight off to the beach or mountains.
So I decided to give Prishtina a chance – and was so grateful I did.
While the striking brutalist architecture, Communist-era apartment blocks and smoky cafes may not be to everyone’s taste, the city is full of character. There might not be a pretty little old town, but there are lively boulevards to stroll down and squares where groups of friends and families drink coffee late into summer evenings. And although visitors won’t be met with a slew of tourist attractions, both the National Library in Prishtina – often labelled on social media as “the ugliest building in Europe” – and the Newborn Monument both pay tribute to Kosovo’s complicated past, while there are a few quirky sights to take in, including a slightly bizarre Bill Clinton statue.
But the beauty of so-called ‘boring’ cities is that there isn’t too much to do. Because when you’re not rushing to fit in the “must-see” tourist sights, queuing up at the latest Instagram-famous restaurant or trying to get a photo of the best view, you have the time to take a breath and slip into the daily rhythms of a city. You can dive into small cafes, stroll through city parks, browse local bookshops and learn about local histories – without the pressure of “doing it all” or spending a ton of cash.
As for Prizren? Yes, it is prettier. This charming Kosovan town, nestled in the foothills of the Sharr Mountains, is rich in history dating back to ancient times. With cobbled streets, a river running through the centre and attractive Ottoman architecture, I can understand why travellers are drawn here.
On the sunny weekend I visited, there were tourists sipping Turkish coffees in cafes by the water, while others browsed the stores around the main square or took photos from the famous Stone Bridge. It was beautiful, and oh-so-different to the rather grittier, livelier Prishtina.
My advice? Visit both. Together, Prishtina and Prizren make an excellent introduction to understanding the layers of Europe’s youngest country. They’re also only an hour apart by road, so can easily be combined into one holiday.
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